Dirtbag's Guide to Skiing the Southern Rockies, Part 1: Silverton, CO

Silverton Mountain.  With the Grande Couloir on the left, and the Gnar Couloir on the right

Photo taken with: 

Journey to the San Juans:

When I was but a lad, I did not appreciate being able to drive to some of the raddest ski areas in the Northern Rockies in less than a day.  When I left for school in Denver, I was excited to see more of what the Rocky Mountains had in store for me to explore.  While there are many things about the Front Range that I eventually would learn to love, I developed an early fascination with the Southern Rockies on my first ever DU Alpine Club trip to Silverton Mountain when I was 18.  The San Juans were rugged, steep, and beautiful.  I knew instantly that I wanted to spend as much of my time in Colorado as I could exploring this isolated landscape.  Wolf Creek, Pagosa Springs, Telluride, Durango, Silverton (but not C.B. so far), the towns and the mountains seemed like an entirely different Colorado from anything near Denver, Boulder, Aspen or Vail.

The Iconic Billboard from the top of Rope Dee 1 (already a 30 min hike from the lift)

So, I went on every DUAC trip to the San Juans that I could, including getting tickets to Silverton via a lottery every year of college.  My sophomore year I completely tore my ACL going to fast for the conditions on the Silverton trip.  I was back on the trip exactly one year later, and was rewarded for a difficult year of rehab with over 4' of blower pow (+5' at Wolf Creek the following day).

have you passed the log-test?

My senior year I, along with 2 other club members, dropped the extra $ for our first helicopter rides.  Skylar Holgate, Silverton's Head Heli-Guide, was our guide for the drop.  Skylar was also my group's guide 4 years prior when I was a young college freshmen.  That day will always be one of the most influential days of skiing ever for me.

stoked out of my mind

The ride alone was worth the money and was one of the radder experiences of my life up to that point.  Before you knew it we were standing on top of Pyramid, one of the most popular zones for heli-skiing at Silverton.  Our adrenaline had already skyrocketed from the rush of getting ourselves and the gear safely out of the chopper with the rotors thundering overhead.  Snow conditions were difficult to say the least, but they were all over the state in 2012, so it was still one of the best days of the season.

With his GoPro Red-Light On, Cody drops into his run on Pyramid Peak with Silverton Heli-Skiing...

Dirtbag Tips for Silverton:

Season Pass:

In August of 2012, I purchased my 2012/2013 Unguided Season Pass to Silverton Mountain for $400.  This pass gets you the unguided season which normally runs from Dec. 1 to Mid-January until opening up again in April.  This may sound like a raw deal, but the pass comes with 5 free ski-days at each of Arapahoe Basin, Loveland, and Monarch ski areas.  Unguided pass holders can also purchase standby guided tickets and heli-drops for almost 50% off during the guided season, which is also a great deal.  So anyone living in Colorado can find a way to make this pass worth it, as long as your goal is to ski some of the only gnar that CO has to offer!  Not too mention $2 drafts at the Yurt!  Check out Unguided Skiing at Silverton Mountain

Where to Stay/Where to Go In Town:

I have only ever stayed in hotels in Silverton when I used to go down there with the Alpine Club.  We usually stayed at the Grand Imperial Hotel, which was very nice, but I have no idea what the actual room charge was.  This hotel is very old, probably haunted with the ghosts of miners and prostitutes, and seems like it should be the set of a Scooby-Doo episode.

Certainly the cheapest places in Silverton would be the Silverton Inn and Hostel, or The Triangle Motel (Powder Mag's Choice for 'the only place' to stay in Silverton).  If you had 2 or 3 people to split aroom I would try the Triangle Motel.

For a beer head to Miner's Tavern (1069 Greene Street, Silverton, CO 81433) or Montanya Distillers aka 'The Rum Bar' for a variety of specialty rum cocktails.

The Stash to Ride:

Dope Chute:

I won't give you photos or a map, but here's a few hints.  Drop into Rope Dee #4, a 30 min hike from the lift, and start to traverse to skier's right as soon as you are able.  Stay high and traverse over the raised rockband, some side-stepping is necessary.  Keep going and traverse skiers right across the next open face.  On the other side is a narrow chute, drop in and enjoy.  The runs accessed from the Rope Dee Gates are some of the first high alpine runs to open and the winds consistently load those aspects, keeping Rope Dee fresh for days after a storm.

Other Ski Areas Along the Way:

When visiting Silverton from somewhere else in the state (talking to you 303 dwellers!) it makes the most sense to stop at another ski area along the way.  The good options for ski areas en route to Silverton are obviously Monarch Mountain near Gunnison, or Wolf Creek Ski Area near Pagosa Springs.  Monarch runs a noted cat-skiing operation in its side-country, while Wolf Creek Pass is known for CO's deepest pow days.  Both are great options for low-key alternatives to the large Corporate Resorts that Colorado is so well known for.  A third option is Purgatory (now Durango Mountain Resort) which is outside Durango on the highway to Silverton.  Purgatory is more of a family  oriented mountain, but it also has an urgent care clinic and on-slope bar both of which you may visit if you blow a knee at Silverton.

Ski Monarch, Wolf Creek Ski Area, Durango Mountain Resort

Nearby Hot Springs:

On my most recent trip to Silverton for the end of the January unguided season in 2013, we were skiing at temperatures of -15 to -20 degrees Farenheit.  After a few days of that you will be ready for a long hot dip in a 108 degree tub of sulfur water.

If you are coming through Buena Vista or Wolf Creek the best option for hot springs will be in the town of Pagosa Springs, which has several small resorts with free spa visits for guests and also daily rates for those just passing through.  The two main options are the Springs Resort and the Healing Waters Resort.  The Springs costs roughly $25 for a one-time visit, although it is much larger with more pools and a bar.  The Springs would be the best option if you were with a large co-ed group or were looking to be around more people. (The Springs Resort and Spa)  For a quieter, more secluded (and cheaper!) experience you should look across the street to Healing Waters.  They have a warm pool, hot tub, and separate male/female steam rooms.  A one-time pass to Healing Waters costs only $10. (Healing Waters Resort and Spa)

If you are coming through Montrose or Gunnison, the closest hot springs to Silverton will be those in Ouray.  If you cannot make it over Red Mountain Pass before dark you should consider staying in a hotel in Ouray which will most likely have their own tubs with water from the hot springs (Since I am on a tight budget I usually spend the night in the Walmart Parking Lot in Montrose).


That's all for now foks!  Much luck to all in 2013
-Colin